Game On

[1] Cribbage

This 17th-century game is a blend of gin and war: Players toss down cards in a face-off round before building pairs, runs, or flushes for an additional round of points. Pegs help you track the score; first one around wins. 

Your edge: Each player scans his hand and discards cards to a “crib” that scores points for the dealer. If you’re the dealer, give yourself good cards: a pair, for example. If not, avoid tossing anything that will help your opponent score points during the face-off round: 5s, 10s, and any face cards. 

The set: This board features polished metal pegs instead of the usual plastic stand-ins. We’d have lost them instantly, but the rosewood body doubles as a smart storage container. $75, houseofcribbage.com

[2] Dominoes

The game hasn’t changed since the 1100s, when the earliest dominoes were made. Players harvest seven facedown dominoes from a pool of 28 and take turns laying down tiles with matching numbers touching. No options? Pick from the pile. Pile’s gone? Next player goes. The first person to run out of dominoes (or the one with the lowest score remaining in hand) wins. 

Your edge: Always discard high tiles, but keep your low numbers diverse. Carrying doubles reduces your options. 

The set: You don’t have to be an AARP member to enjoy this set of bones. The sleek, brushed silver tiles are made of lightweight, aircraft-quality aluminum—the same stuff that Harley enthusiasts put on their motorcycles. $350, billetbones.com

[3] Connect Four

This classic two-player face-off was called “the Captain’s Mistress,” after English seafarer James Cook’s addiction to the game in the 1700s. Your goal, if you’re one of the three Americans who haven’t played, is to create a consecutive link of four chips, across, down, or diagonally. 

Your edge: Boxing out the center column opens opportunities for diagonal wins and prevents your opponent from doing the same. Creating two consecutive rows of three, either horizontally or diagonally, is another way to force your opponent into a no-win situation. 

The set: There’s nothing refined about the neon yellow set made popular in the 1980s. This stained mahogany Master Score 4 set from Jaques of London keeps up a gentlemanlike appearance—even when you administer a brutal beat-down to your opponent. $90, jaqueslondon.com

Go to the next page to learn how to beat anyone at tic-tac-toe...

[4] Tic-Tac-Toe

The game might look simple, but tic-tac-toe is used to teach stock-market geeks the rudiments of combinatorial game theory. The nine-block grid offers 255,168 ways to win, lose, or draw. 

Your edge: Making the first move more than doubles your chances of winning. But no matter what order you’ve drawn, avoid the middle outside squares. The center and corner squares are the power blocks: They open three potential directions for winning while blocking three lines from your opponent. The middle outside slots open only two victory lanes. 

The set: Plunk this solid brass, wood, and leather set on your coffee table and your victories will carry some serious weight. The suede bottom keeps surfaces free of scratches, and the brown leather top with topstitching cushions your every move. $395, ralphlauren.com


[5] Go

Strategists in feudal China used Go to strengthen their tactical skills. Players lay stones on a grid where lines intersect; the winner grabs the most turf by surrounding empty spaces with stones. Surround an opponent’s tiles to nab his soldiers. 

Your edge: Build easily defended strongholds in the corners of the board and expand them along the sides. 

The set: Made of vintage katsura or kaya timbers, the board below strikes a solid presence in your room. The marble pieces and stone storage pots echo the timelessness of the game. $1,500, shogunsgallery.com